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wetskier2000

Panel Welding - Bodywork

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See those sweet cab corner patch panels? See that less then stellar patch to the former gas filler hole? 

I'm about to install the cab corners but still have issues with warpage as evidenced by the filler hole patch.

I try to tack, tack, tack maybe an inch apart, then let it cool and I think that works OK, I'm more skeptical of my grinding which I try to do only until it's warm to my hand then stop and let it cool. But I still seem to get warping... 

Pointers, tips, words of wisdom before I warp panels that cannot be replaced?

 

Buford_New_Cab_corner.jpg

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1 hour ago, 84cj said:

Heat as low as possible. Do a couple, walk away, few more, walk away. 

... a couple tacks and walk away, don't go all the way around?

Flapper wheel not a flapper disc? Why?

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You want to weld all the way around, so it's eventually one piece with no holes. You need to do an area, with low heat, and let it cool. Come back and do a little more. Too high of a heat or not allowing it to cool will warp it. I did the lower sections of the 1/4 panels on the Corsa, and the sides, after a skim coat, are straight as an arrow. Patience. 

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If you're using flux core wire, DON'T. Find a 220 welder with shielding gas and use that, short stitches, cool and keep doing that. 

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The last time I did any sheet metal, I started with the traditional stitch but ended up where I was running some pretty long beads. I found higher amps (faster wire) and fast motion did a pretty decent job.

 

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23 minutes ago, heavysquad said:

Where did the patch panels come from?

hmmm... air hose, huh? Interesting idea...

The panels are from an outfit named Northern Classics. Unfortunately, he decided to retire and the parts are no more...

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from a 914 guy:

Quote

Just posted this on Instagram. Timelapse of welding in a patch panel on this 914. This is the hell hole area, the inner fender wall where the battery tray will mount. 

I feel the gap between the panels to see if one is higher than the other, then use a variety of hammer and/or dolly to bring the two pieces level. This step is where good welds are made. Without lining up the pieces you'll never get invisible welds.

Then a quick series of tack welds, stacking one onto the next one until the gap is filled. Then hit it with a wire brush (blue handle) to remove the burn 'smoke'.

I use a variety of grinders, but mostly the 3" Roloc 80g sanding disk, to grind the welds smooth. I first shoot to remove 90% of the height of the weld, this is the grinding that makes lots of sparks. Then I lightly grind the last 10%, moving smoothly and evenly and changing grinding direction to avoid cutting grooves/ruts into the material.

Finally some hand sanding with 120g emery cloth which highlights and high or low spots that need further attention.

This video represents about 35m of work. If there's any interest, maybe I'll take a real-time video tomorrow to better show the process.
 

 

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