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FGZ

FGZ's 1985 4Runner: web wheeling at its finest

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Tonight I tried starting it with the fuel pump jumped. It fired right up but then stayed in the "misfire" mode that it normally snaps out of once I rev it past 2500. "Misfire mode" (my term) can be noted by shaky motor and no power. All spark plug wires were firmly in place at the cap and plugs - new wires, cap, plugs with maybe 2 months of use on them. I took it up and down the street and the lack of power felt like what I was getting years ago when the intake boot wasn't tight, so I went looking for intake leaks. Found 1 - PCV hose  - fixed it. Still no power and shaky. I also have a pretty high idle, might need to check the idle screw o-ring.

I got a CEL on first start up but didn't read it before disconnecting the battery later. Gotta read that next time.

Also for next time, unplug one plug at a time to figure out which cylinder it is so I can go check the injector plugs. And check idle screw o-ring.

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I forgot to check timing, so that's also on the list of next steps. Timing reference: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#TimingCheckConnector

And a buddy suggested I check the temp at each exhaust manifold port to see if there is a dead cylinder. I don't have one of those nifty "LASER" thermometers so I'll have to opt for water spray sizzle.

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Timing was retarded after the rebuild, at like 0deg. Adjusted to a little over 5deg and it maybe helped a little but it's still shaking a lot, something else going on. The idle adjust screw o-ring might be acting up, tapping on housing around it makes idle jump around. So either that o-ring or the TPS is messing up. But the TPS did the right thing when I jumped the diagnostic port - idle dropped like it's supposed to.

Inspection tomorrow at 8am then I'll be back at this roughness issue to see what I can figure out.

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It's been pretty merciful to me in that regard, I mean to start right up after *I* do a head gasket job is pretty gracious. The fact that it doesn't run RIGHT is pretty on par with my junk though.

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Got inspected this morning. Drove there and back on very low power but on the way home it started bucking every once in a while, like the extra cylinder (or 2) was kicking in.

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You adjusted the valves?

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2 hours ago, HEEPJEEP said:

You adjusted the valves?

yes, I set them to .006/.008 cold after reinstalling the head. The reconditioned head came with a reground cam, so I assumed I would be starting over on valve settings. The guy I got the head from is a big 22RE nut and confirmed the 6/8 cold settings. The FSM says to warm it up and then adjust them to something like .008/.012.

I see the FSM also tells me after the HG to warm it up then re-torque the HG bolts, so maybe I'll go back in and do that and re-check the valves while I'm at it.

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Current status: starts up fine, so that issue is not rearing its head currently. Today it started and ran smooth. For half a block it ran with full power, then started to cut down to 2 or 3 cylinders with the power loss and shakey - kept doing that off and on for the drive around the block.

I took the idle control screw apart and cleaned it up the other day, maybe that helped. I'll replace the o-ring, didn't look very good.

After going for a spin I drained the oil, looked decent and no water that I could tell so hopefully I'm cleaning out that sludge OK and didn't leave any water behind to wipe my bottom end.

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