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FGZ

FGZ's 1985 4Runner: web wheeling at its finest

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In case you're new here, I got a 4Runner and intend to tell NEOW all about it.

-Tried to ship one from CA

-Finally found, and got, one from SC

-First crack out of the bag I want it lowered But it passed inspection, so lowering it is just another item on the list now, not as urgent.

 

It's supposed to be a capable daily driver. Jay pointed out that currently it is neither, so I have my work cut out for me.

 

Stuff done so far:

-Power fell flat on its face under 2000 rpm. Needed 2 intake hose clamps tightened so the AFM readings would quit screwing up the EFI.

-Very hard to start under 30 degrees. Cold start injector connection was loose. Still kinda shoddy, need a new connector, but it fires right up again.

-Coolant temp spikes, then dives several times while warming up. Freaking scary watching a head gasket prone motor get into red zone on temp, but it always dives back down. Problem discussed all over pirate, Roger Brown did a writeup and got a 2 stage high priced thermostat on the way from LC Engineering.

-Horn doesn't work. Pirate has a fix for that one, working on it.

-Windshield washer fluid no worky. Turns out the reservoir has a crack in it. Working on water welding it.

 

Need to work on:

 

Brakes - HIGH

Very weak. Lots of pedal travel, finally gets very firm but isn't applying much force. PO did rear cylinders, which is how he found out it's got an IFS rear. Maybe he didn't bleed it right. I'm going to try rigging the LSPV all the way open to see if it helps for now, then try bleeding the rear by the book. I need warmer temps to do brakes.

I'm probably going the same/usual route Tracy did...from deep in the NEOW archives. I'm kind of operating under the assumption that if I upgrade 1 thing I should upgrade it all. Sadly, I'm throwing all these parts at brakes because I don't know exactly why mine succk so much right now - I'm pretty sure it's more than just the big tires.

  • $170 for calipers, pads, and the vented LC rotors. Those are the earlier IFS calipers that, while still 4 piston, are 2 small / 2 large, whereas most folks go for the V6 IFS calipers that have all 4 larger pistons. The bigger piston ones are $40 more through Davez, not sure I need them though.
  • 1" bore MC $90 seems to be the going rate for those.
  • Prop valve to replace the LSPV since most folks recommend ditching the LSPV for tires 35 and up.
  • Keeping rear drums, I assume rear disks will be overkill for my typical usage.
  • I can't figure out the dual diaphragm brake booster mod yet. THIS GUY says it made a huge difference even on his stock setup, says he grabbed his off a '90 2WD pickup, direct bolt on even on the 85s which have a bigger ujoint on the steering shaft which usually hits upgraded boosters. Another guy in the same thread says you need the booster from a '92-'93 4Runner. Either of those boosters new on Rockauto is ~$160. I'm going to have to see the junkyard or cruise carpart for that one, or find another source which will take time.

Exhaust - MED

Someday I will drive a vehicle without an exhaust leak. The Civic has had a cracked manifold for 5 years. The 4Runner is booger welded together and I hear/smell it leaking. I don't see bolt-on kits off-the-shelf, except for stock replacement parts. Looks like I will be piecing my own setup together: keep the stock manifold, go with 2" keeping the routing as close to stock as possible. This is a warm weather job too.

 

Booger Welds, frame brace, IFS box mount - MED

A welder at work will grind/reweld all the PO's booger boo-boo's for a good price. While he's at it I'm installing a front frame brace and steering box mount.. The steering box mount will be added when I move the IFS box forward until my pitman arm and tie rod are no longer on top of my drag link.

 

Suspension - MED

That was covered in a different thread. Taking out a few leaves and see what happens sounds like a good plan at the moment, and if I want to fix the front shackle angle I'll go RUF or swap to longer, shorter Alcans.

 

Trans and motor mounts - LOW

Trans mount looks pretty cracked, can't tell what the motor mounts are doing. I'm going the cheap route on the motor mounts $32 /pair at Low Range and biting the bullet on the transmission $96 at 22REperformance.

 

 

Those are the biggest things, and there is plenty of other little stuff. One thing at a time.

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Where's mounting the 8274 on the list?

 

Pretty low, but I've put some thought into it. I haven't seen an off-the-shelf bumper, so I'll have to look at modifying mine, end up with something like this. Hopefully you don't have to be logged in to IH8mud for that pic, but the gist is to keep it low as I can get it using the bumper I have.

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your cold start issues are pretty common. not just the csis (cold start injector switch), but also the start time switch, sitting right next to the csi. another issue is to see whether the cold start injector itself is functioning correctly. it's located at the top of the intake plenum. remove the two bolts, carefully pull the injector out (with the hard fuel line still attached), and have an assistant briefly turn the key switch to start while you watch for spray from the injector, rather than dribbles or nothing. this can be done by having the injector just clear of the plenum, but still pointing into the hole in the plenum, thus avoiding spraying fuel all over the place. if it sprays fuel, it works.

 

other issues.

 

the headlight switch on the column. eventually, it will fail to switch from hi to low. you should check out a good write-up over on t4r.org, under the "classic" subforum, under "ruby tuesday's build" by rad4runner. excellent detail about fixing some engineering design flaws in the wiring circuits from the factory. also address potential issues with the starter circuit. i've done both the headlight switch mod and the starter circuit mod. very easy, and minimal cost.

 

 

 

back to the cold starting. if you verify the csi works, and the switches (csis and stis) work, you may have fuel pressure issues, whereby fuel is bleeding back through the fuel pump or leaking from the regular injectors overnight. one temporary way around that is to use the clutch cancel switch feature to your advantage. don't press it. turn the key to start with the runner in neutral, but clutch out. the only thing that should happen is you'll hear the fuel pump run for as long as you hold the key in the start position. hold it for about 4 or 5 seconds. release. press clutch pedal and then turn key to start.

 

more later.

Edited by wally

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oh, yeah. the temp gauge. verify that it's the gauge, rather than changing out your thermostat. the gauge has a known issue. a tiny wire on one side of the winding usually breaks, and will intermittently wrok, thus the spike reading. not all have it, but it may be what's causing your reading, rather than the t-stat. another writeup available, this time over on yota-tech forum. search under the '86 to '95 pickups/4runners section (yeah, i know yours is an '85). it's a sticky thread at the top of the subforum.

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the horn fix is simple. it involves pulling the horn pad from the steering wheel, then removing the steering wheel. to remove the pad, remove the single phillips head screw from the underside of the pad. carefully lift the bottom edge of the pad out slightly, then push the entire assembly up, toward the top of the wheel. there are two clips that hold the top of the pad to the wheel, and you need to have these release. once these "unclip", be carefull. you need to unhook the wiring connection from the pad (a single connector). set this assembly aside.

 

to pull the wheel, you'll need to loosen the wheel nut (i believe a 22mm). don't remove it, just back it out to the end of the threads. then use your hands to firmly pound the wheel toward you to loosen it from the splines (if you removed the nut, you'll bash yourself in the face with the wheel when it finally breaks free). after it is free, remove the nut, and remove the wheel. no wires to worry about.

 

you'll see a small spring loaded contact on th left side that contacts the horn ring on the underside of the wheel assembly. this is where you want to use a 22 cal shell casing (obviously empty). clean the spring loaded contact so it is shiny, clean the inside of the shell casing, and clean the horn contact ring (on the wheel). if the shell casing wiggles after inserting it on the spring contact, add a little aluminum foil to make it solid. reattach everything, and don't forget to reconnect the wire from the pad to the wheel.

 

should make a more reliable beep-beep.

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Thanks for the info! As of right now the cold start issue was fixed by plugging the cold start injector back in to the wiring harness. The harness side of that connection is borken and doesn't like to stay put, so I have zip ties on it holding it in place temporarily.

 

Thanks for the other tech links, they're going on the list of to-dos.

 

For the clutch, something is already modified on my clutch cancel switch, because it will turn over without the clutch pushed in. Or the switch just isn't labeled anymore because the words wore off. I googled to see which switch it is (quickly found rad's thread in that search), I'll see if the switch is working or if it has been bypassed by a PO.

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sounds like the switch has been bypassed or modified. without pressing in the clutch pedal, the engine shouldn't turn over with the key in the start position unless you press the clutch cancel button.

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I have an on/off rocker switch in the spot where the clutch cancel switch would be. I'll figure out what it is someday.

 

-Coolant temp spikes, then dives several times while warming up. Freaking scary watching a head gasket prone motor get into red zone on temp, but it always dives back down. Problem discussed all over pirate, Roger Brown did a writeup and got a 2 stage high priced thermostat on the way from LC Engineering.

 

It looks like round 1 goes to me. I swapped out the thermostat this afternoon, hopefully it is one of the few times I will be wrenching in mid-20's weather, but every bolt just turned without issue and it's easy to work on. The hardest part was cleaning up the PO's gasket-in-a-can mess. Test drive says the temp stayed right about half way with no spiking. Dual stage thermostat FTW.

 

oh, yeah. the temp gauge. verify that it's the gauge, rather than changing out your thermostat. the gauge has a known issue. a tiny wire on one side of the winding usually breaks, and will intermittently wrok, thus the spike reading. not all have it, but it may be what's causing your reading, rather than the t-stat. another writeup available, this time over on yota-tech forum. search under the '86 to '95 pickups/4runners section (yeah, i know yours is an '85). it's a sticky thread at the top of the subforum.

 

I forgot that my temp gauge sometimes doesn't work, I've worked on the connection at the coolant temp sensor and it got better, but it still dies sometimes. The spike/dive temperatures I was talking about were definitely because of the thermostat, you could watch the gauge creep up to redline then drop to about half when it was doing it. When the gauge isn't working it drops all they way to zero. I still have a bad connection or an intermittent cold temp sensor failure, but I'm less worried about it with a good t-stat in there.

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the temp gauge "drop to zero" is the gauge itself, in the dash cluster next to the speedometer. a thin wire is likely borken, and needs to be resoldered. there's a writeup on yotatech.

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Good, I'll go after it when I'm in the cluster to find what's loose behind the tach. It likes to not work when it's super cold out. Thanks for mentioning the tech write-ups, they always save time.

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I was able to talk to the previous previous owner on the phone today, the one that did all the mods.

 

He confirmed 5.29 gears. Front axle was rebuilt when gears were done, so, sometime since 2002. Stock axleshafts. '86 rear. I need to redo felts, but hopefully don't have to mess with bearings and seals. Lift was originally All-Pro, and then he swapped in Alcan springs. Bumpers and sliders are All-Pro too.

 

Motor is up for debate. Original owner says it had 280k when he sold it to the PO. PO says it was swapped to an '86 with 60k by the original owner. I know it runs great and has good compression, but 220k is a big difference. I'll look into it.

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